I sat up late last night at my computer, planning a sojourn in Agra, from the middle of February to the middle of March,

that being the only month of the year when the weather in Agra is at all tolerable, with a fair prospect of seeing the Taj Mahal by the light of the full moon in Virgo (on the first of March), if, as I hear, the Bureau of Tourists has in fact lifted its ban on nightly visits to Mughal monuments. Which are, of course, the only reason one would want to sojourn in Agra in any season. Not that I mean to be cruelly dismissive of modern day Indians (I love them, their movies and their culture--despite their reputed persistent, incessant public defecation).  Anyway, the "Grand Hotel Agra," with private bath, air conditioning, breakfast and wifi, at a very reasonable $2,000 a month (which is about the same price as minimally comfortable round-trip air fare from Honolulu) tempts me strangely.  As do the readily available rickshaws.  And it would be such an adventure.